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If you lawn has suffered from a summer of drought, kids' play, grub damage or other onslaughts, fall is the best time to revive it. Even if your turf made it through the summer relatively unscathed, it will still benefit from some TLC before facing the harsh winds of winter. Here are some tips to get your lawn ready for a fresh start next spring.
Grass will grow in almost any kind of soil in the early spring; but to stay healthy all summer long, it has certain preferences for soil conditions. If your lawn really seemed to struggle for no apparent reason or seemed unusually bothered by insects, disease or weed invasions, the problem may not be the grass-it might be the soil. So before you spend a lot of money on fertilizers, soil amendments and grass seed, spend a little on having your soil tested.
You can usually have this done at a local nursery, garden center, or the county extension office. The test will describe the current condition of the soil-pH level, percentage of organic material present, aeration and drainage capacity and other characteristics. It may also tell the levels of certain nutrients, and it might even include recommendations for improvements. This information will help you target your efforts, spend your money more efficiently, and give your lawn restoration a healthy start.
Lawns that regularly host the neighborhood soccer games or otherwise attract a lot of traffic will generally suffer from soil compaction. An ideal soil will have as much as 50% pore space between soil particles. If the soil is badly compacted, grass roots can't receive the oxygen they need, they have a harder time spreading through the soil, and water run-off is increased.
The best way to loosen the soil is with an aerating machine. The aerator is a gas-powered machine with hollow tubes that pull soil plugs from the ground. You can pay a lawn service to do this, or rent a machine from the neighborhood tool rental shop and do it yourself.
Some people also apply gypsum to help improve heavily compacted clay soils. Gypsum is a granular mineral that chemically promotes clumping of soil particles and reduces surface crusting.
Sand is not recommended for use in amending compacted clay soils. While it can be effective in small gardens, it is difficult to add sand in large enough quantities to effectively aerate these soils in an entire lawn. In fact, small amounts of sand mixed with clay can lead to even harder, adobe-like soil structure.
Most grasses grow best in a soil that is nearly neutral in pH. Nutrients, like the fertilizer you will be putting down, are most readily available to plant roots when the soil is neither too acidic or too alkaline. In fact, phosphorus, an essential nutrient for strong root development and disease resistance, is most efficiently absorbed within a very narrow 6.5-7.3 pH range.
If your soil test showed a pH level lower than 6.5, the grass won't be getting all the nutrients it needs, even if the soil has plenty of nutrients available. Adding lime will help restore a proper pH level. Schultz Lime Plus is clean and easy to apply. Because it is pelletized, it won't create a dusty "lime storm" like powdery lime products. It also contains a 4-1-2 time-release plant food to begin feeding your grass immediately.
If the soil is particularly low, don't double or triple the application rate now. Instead, apply the recommended amount now, then add lime again in the spring, and, if still needed, again next fall. Be sure to test your soil before each application. Remember, extreme alkalinity can be just as damaging as high acidity.
Whether you are filling in a few bare spots, overseeding a thin lawn or reseeding a new lawn, fall is the perfect time to get young grass growing. Choose a seed that is appropriate for you geographical region and for the conditions of your particular yard. Some grass varieties prefer full sun, others will do well in shade. Some can't stand the heat while others thrive in it. There are even certain varieties that stand up better to those neighborhood soccer games. If you're not sure what category your yard fits, buy a mixture. The varieties that naturally like the conditions will eventually dominate those that don't.
Frequently, particularly on slopes, it is a good idea to put a thin layer of straw or mesh netting over the seed to help keep it in place and keep it moist until the young grass plants become established. The down side to straw is it decomposes very slowly and is difficult to rake up without tearing tender grass plants out of the ground. An alternative-particularly if your soil test showed low levels of organic material-is to "top dress" the lawn with a thin layer of compost, aged manure, or other material rich in organic matter. This material will act as mulch for the seeds, and eventually work itself into the soil, enhancing the soil's nutritional value, drainage and aeration.
Water newly seeded areas frequently (2-3 times a day) and lightly, keeping the soil moist but not flooded until new grass begins to appear (7-14 days). Gradually reduced watering frequency and increase duration until plants are well established.
If you used Schultz Lime Plus with time-release plant food, you probably won't need to add additional fertilizer immediately. In about 6-8 weeks, after you have cut the new grass once or twice, begin regular applications of liquid or water soluble Schultz All-Purpose Plant Food Plus with a Schultz SuperSprayer nonclogging hose-end feeder until the temperature cools and grass begins to go dormant.
Most healthy lawns shouldn't accumulate much thatch (zoysia excluded). Despite common beliefs, thatch does not result from accumulated grass clippings. Most experts agree grass clippings, which are 90% water, decompose quickly adding beneficial nitrogen but leaving behind virtually no thatch-creating matter.
What does create thatch is overproductive root and rhizome systems caused by overwatering, overfertilizing, and excessive use of pesticides and fungicides that harm earthworms and microbes responsible for assisting in decomposition.
If thatch is a problem, fall is a good time to remove it, with a hand rake or power dethatcher rented from the tool shop.
Fall is a good time to apply broadleaf herbicides. The weeds are sending carbohydrates down to their roots at this time of year, and when they take the herbicide with them, the entire plant will be more effectively destroyed. There is also less danger of wind drifted herbicide causing damage to garden plants, since most vegetables and flowers are past their peak.
If you experienced large patches of brown turf in your yard, you might have an infestation of grubs. If you have grubs, fall is a good time to get rid of them. Grubs are most vulnerable in the early fall when they are actively feeding and relatively small. But be certain that is your problem, since application of a general pesticide will also harm beneficial earthworms and microbes. Try lifting a section of damaged turf. If you can pick up the turf like a rug, and if you see more than 2 or 3 grubs per square foot, you probably need to treat the area. If not, your problem might be a fungus or other plant health problem.
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